IntroductionLying under the watchful eye of Nevada Illimani ‘La Ciudad de Nuestra Señora de La Paz’ (The City of Our Lady Of Peace) occupies the valley of Rio Choqueyapu at an elevation of around 3600 meters and it is considered to be one of the most dramatic city locations anywhere on earth. Most people who visit Bolivia stay at least a few days in La Paz and many find themselves spending more time then they originally planned after discovering there are so many things to experience or just falling in love with the unique atmosphere the city has to offer.
Upon arrival in La Paz your senses are ambushed from every direction. Aromas escape from the tempting street snacks and seemingly constant shouting announces the destinations of local buses. Masked shoe shine boys hustle for your business whilst indigenous, women wearing bowler hats, pedal every thing imaginable - from fake DVDs to dried llama fetuses. This symphony of chaos is set against a backdrop of colonial architecture, modern high-rise office blocks and make shift shacks that cling precariously to the edges of eroding rock cliffs. Though hectic in parts there are also many tranquil spots to while away the hours and the city is equally suited to relaxing as it is exploring.
The ancient and the modern exist side by side in La Paz. Traditionally dressed women chat in Aymara on mobile phones and the latest foreign football shirts are for sale in the same streets as magical herbs and potions. Whilst things are clearly modernizing traditions still hold strong and in recent times indigenous movements have become popular which should help ensure this mix of the old and the new should remain for some time.
Whilst wandering the streets slowly in the thin Andean air, glimpses of the snowy mountain peaks demand your attention and shady plazas invite you to sit and watch the ‘paceños’ – as the citizens of the city are known – go about their daily life. La Paz is a city to be explored slowly, and not only because acclimatising to the altitude will no doubt demand this, but because it takes time to absorb all that is going on around you. Each hour spent wandering the streets, exploring the markets and witnessing daily life will provide new insights into the highest capital city in the world.
Although Sucre is the judicial capital of Bolivia,La Paz functions as the capital city in every other way as it is the main center of commerce,the seat of government and the hub of financial activities for the country.Recently there have been calls from Sucre to move all capital functions there and this will probably be a source of contention between the two cities for some time to come.
Above La Paz,sprawling out from the northern ridge at the top of the canyon, sits the city of El Alto. Atone time no more than a poor suburb of La Paz it is now a fast growing city in its own right with its population approaching that of La Paz. The vast majority of the residents of El Alto are indigenous Aymara who in recent decades have been moving from rural areas in search of a better standard of life in thecity. Unfortunately all too often they find a life no better and El Alto remains one of the poorest cities in South America.
In complete contrast to El Alto is ‘Zona Sur’ (Southern Zone) area of La Paz which is home to the cities richer neighbourhoods. Here you will find luxury housing guarded by private security firms and residents driving expensive 4x4s.Historically Bolivia’s elite power controlling families have been whites descended from Europeans and this is still in evidence in the southern zone where the indigenous peoples area minority.
Whilst La Paz has many problems, as to be expected in the poorest country in South America, it also has many attractions and those with a little adventurous spirit usually find a visit to the city a pleasant experience.
Both rich and poor, sunny and cold,friendly and reserved - there is no doubt this is a city of contrasts - La Paz is an intoxicating place that will remain in the memory of all those that visit.
